American, French, English - 3 Cultures, 3 . . . Languages?

   Happy Halloween, All Saints' Day, All Souls' Day, Day of the Dead and next week is Armistice Day (called Veterans' Day in the US).  As the season changes and the holidays are upon us, I see the melding of cultures in the celebrations that define each country.  Which got me to thinking about me, an American, living in France with English friends.  And all the fun and, sometimes, confusion, that can come from it.
     I'll start with the celebrations.  Halloween has been celebrated by Americans for years!  It's not just the children who enjoy dressing in costumes.  There are always adult Halloween parties with adult "treats" (and sometimes tricks).  I think the Brits have also celebrated Halloween (afterall, the jack o' lantern originated in Ireland), but perhaps not with the wild abandon of Americans.  But it's a fairly new concept to the French.  I was surprised when visiting my new favorite store called GiFi (like a Bed, Bath and Beyond) when I saw a large display of Halloween decorations. 

Halloween Decorations in France

     The big holiday this time of year for most Europeans is November 1, All Saints' Day - La Toussaint.  This is a national holiday - no stores open -  and is spent attending special masses and visiting graves of loved ones and planting or placing mums.  This is the only time of year that one should buy and give mums as they are associated with cemeteries and graves.  Never take mums to a dinner party! 

Mums for the Graves

     It's interesting to me to see the similarities of both these celebrations in the Mexican Day of the Dead.  One can learn so much about a culture by looking at what they celebrate,by what they esteem to be important.  And on a lighter note, I was asking my neighbor when her daughter was born.  She responded December 26, Boxing Day.  I guess I looked at her rather funny and she said, "Don't you celebrate Boxing Day in the US?"  I told her I didn't think it was celebrated anywhere outside of Great Britain and her once colonies.  She seemed shocked!
     Languages are so interesting.  Having English neighbors is enlightening when it comes to vocabulary.  We do speak the same language but  . . .  I find myself saying things like, "I'd fancy a cup of tea right now," or speaking of car parts as the boot and the bonnet.  There are lorries, not trucks; trollies, not carts; and I'm finally getting the hang of meters and kilometers, instead of yards and miles. 
     But I'm still quite American in more than just language!  I have missed some of my favorite TV shows.  When I tried to access them online, I would get a message saying that these programs can only be watched in the US.  So I did a google search to see if there was anyway to get around this. And, of course, there is - for a price.  There are some apps that can be downloaded that will give your computer a US address so you can "fool" the US websites into believing that you are in the US.  So now I can watch "Dancing with the Stars" (the French and English versions are on TV here), "Bull", "Hawaii 5-O", "Scorpion" and "McGuyer".   Even Hulu can only be watched from a US address.
     At this point let me talk about food.  McDonald's are everywhere, but they are a lot classier here than in the US.  The French have turned "fast food" into more like a restaurant experience and some of the buildings are wonderful.  There's a French restaurant chain called "The Buffalo Grill".  They serve American style food - barbeque ribs, onion rings, baked potatoes with sour cream, hamburgers and steaks.  It's actually really good.  So when I find myself in need of some American style food, I do have some options.  What I really miss is Mexican and Southwest American foods.  The grocery stores have "Mexican Product" sections with Old El Paso kits for fajitas and enchiladas.  Guess I could try that.

Inside a McDonalds

Outside a 2 Story McDonalds

     There's always something new that comes along to peak my interest and give me something to write about.  Sorry this is a day late, but I just wasn't in the mood to sit and write yesterday.  After almost two weeks of morning fog that would last until noon, we finally had sunny blue skies and I had to get out and enjoy it.  And look what I saw on the side of the road?

Now that's not something you usually see anywhere!

Just hanging out on the side of the road!

     As always, I thank you all and appreciate you all so much - for your kind words of encouragement and support.  I'm so glad that you are all along for the ride!  Merci!
   

To See, Hear, Smell, Taste and Touch Autumn in France

     This past week I have really noticed a difference in the landscape.  As the Fall Equinox sends us in a slightly different orbit around the sun, I see things a little differently.  In general, Autumn is my least favorite season.  As I look around me I tend to see things in their decline, dying and returning to the earth.  I know this is necessary in order to have my most favorite season - Spring.  But I don't enjoy watching the death of the plants that I so dearly love.
     I have never been in France this far into the Fall season and so this is the first time I have experienced the beauty of so many colors, smells, tastes, sounds, and textures of France in the Autumn.  It's a new love!
     The woods near my house are bright with reds and golds and oranges among the still green late- turning trees.  The many vineyards are just starting to lose their bright green color.  There's a field of leeks growing just up the road - their bluish-green leaves standing straight like little soldiers.  Every hillside has a plume of smoke from the brush that farmers and land owners are burning and clearing out for the promise of future growth.

A nearby hillside

The front of my cottage

In the next field over

     There seems to be more farm equipment on these tiny narrow winding roads that slows everyone down.  John Deere is alive and well in France!  And there are lots of silos in every little village.  This is an agricultural area with cornfields as well as the vineyards.  Corn to feed the livestock - the cows, the geese (for foie gras!), the ducks and other poultry, the goats and sheep.  People don't eat corn in France.  They don't realize what they're missing when it comes to an ear of corn drenched in butter!
     The fields also play host to a number of wild animals.  I have seen deer and buzzards, crows and pheasants.  I have yet to see a wild boar, but I know they're out there!
     And that brings me to the sounds of Fall.  It's hunting season around here and I can hear gunshots all around me at the cottage.  And I'm hoping they missed!  (Sorry, hunter friends.  I know the importance of hunting and all the reasons why it should be done.  It's just that I'm such a softie when it comes to animals.)  I can hear their dogs barking to alert them to the game.  It's open season for pheasants and deer and boar, if they can be found.  They are pretty elusive!
     I can hear the farmer's tractor in the next field and his cows (there's always one that wears thee bell) enjoying their meal of grass and wildflowers.  Yesterday, while driving in the mountains I heard sheep - a lot of sheep.  (I smelled them, too!)  And quite often I hear the military jets as they have a flight pattern directly over the cottage.

The Sheep that got Away

The Sheep that Didn't

     The smells of Autumn are as varied as the sights and sounds.  The smell of the farmers' fires in the fields is acrid and burns my throat if I'm too close to it.  But I love walking along the driveway as the rosemary bushes are blooming now.  And there's lavender just outside my door.  The late roses are so beautiful and add to the feeling that Spring can't be all that far away, right?

The mandarin orange tree

Rosemary in the drive

     Autumn in France means mushrooms!  There are stands along the side of the roads and in villages that just sell mushrooms - of many varieties.  How lovely to cook with fresh mushrooms!  The taste is indescribable!  It reminds you of the earth which gave the mushroom its life.  The French have a word for that "earthy" taste - it's called the "terroir" - meaning "of the earth".  It is used to describe the taste of a wine.  What makes this wine different from another wine of the same name?  The terroir - where the grapes were raised and everything in the soil and the atmosphere that affects the taste of the wine.  And Hélène's walnut cake is wonderful!  This is the area for walnuts and chestnuts and other nuts that we associate with the end of the year holidays.  Yum!
     As for touch, I am so thankful for that wonderful French invention, the towel warmer!  How lovely to step out of the shower and be able to envelope oneself in immediate warmth!   And then to wrap my soft woolen shawl around me as I watch TV.  And, of course, the flannel sheets on the bed are so welcoming.
     I hope I have given you a glimpse of life in my corner of France in Autumn.  I don't think I can ever like this season as much as I do Spring, but it is growing on me.  I look forward to each outing to see the changes in the colors.  I drove into the mountains yesterday.  I can't stay away too long!  They are so beautiful and are always calling to me - no matter what season.
 

I love the mountains any time of year!

     Unfortunately, the drive was not in my new car.  I will pick it up on Tuesday.  French bureaucracy is crazy! It seems the salesman had bought the Audi in Germany and it had not yet been registered in France.  So I had to do that before I could get the paperwork that would get me the car.  Oy vay!
     Thank you for letting me share my sensory impressions of Autumn in France.  Oh how I wish I could paint.  I can see in my mind how it would all look on parchment - like a Monet or a Renoir - but it comes out of my hand like a three year old did it (no offense to three year old artists.)
     I hope you are enjoying Fall in your part of the world.  The changing of the seasons is always a time of reflection for me.  The forces of Nature are astounding.  May you find joy in the sense of wonder.  Thanks for being on this journey with me.  Merci!

Old Cars, New Friends, and the Ever-Constant Call of the Mountains

    I just bought a car - in a foreign country, with foreign currency, signing papers in a foreign language!  But let me tell you how many bends were in this road.  I started my search about two weeks ago by finding a couple of internet sights that posted notices for used cars.  About ten days ago I set out in search of a few of them that I found.  Keep in mind that I'm living outside of a small village and towns of any size are at least 30 minutes away and the larger towns are an hour to an hour and a half from me.
     When I first began my search I was certain that I wanted a 4x4 like my RAV4, but I was also certain that I wanted an automatic as I am so tired of driving a stick shift all around these little narrow winding roads and up and down the mountain passes.  I also have a pretty strict budget, not wanting to spend more than $6500 and less than 180,000 kilometers (about 100,000 miles).
     Automatics are rare in France and I found early in my search that I would have a difficult time finding what I wanted.  So I gave up looking for a 4x4 and when I found a couple of cars that fit the rest of my criteria and were within a four hour round trip I decided to go see them.  I found a 2007 Toyota Auris (not sold in the US) and a 2004 Audi A3.  I liked them both after seeing them, but wondered about the way the Toyota drove.  There was a pretty significant delay between gears as it accelarated (it's an automatic) so it didn't have any "get-up-and-go" and I was worried it might be a problem with the engine.  The Audi, of course, seemed to have lots of power but the salesman didn't come with me and just handed me the keys and I had no idea what roads to take it on to see how it did with speed so just drove it around the little town. 
     I kept looking online, but these were still the best choices.  Last week, my landlord, Giuseppe (and one of my new friends, the other being his wife, Hélène - more about them in minute) offered to go see the Toyota with me.  I had messaged Andy about the Toyota and he said it could be a problem with the transmission or the catalytic converter so I had some questions to ask.  And I thought that taking a man with me might make a difference.  Ladies, you know what I mean.
     So last Wednesday we were off to see the Toyota, drive it again, and ask some questions.  Here's how the conversation went:  (This is all in French)  Me - "I have a concern about the slow acceleration and the delay between the shifting of the gears.  Could there be a problem with the transmission?"  Him - "There is nothing wrong with the transmission.  That's just how automatics run."  Me - "Um, no, I have driven automatics my entire life and have never had one that drove like that.  That's why I'm concerned."  Him - "Well, in the US they have more automatics and have been perfecting those engines much longer than here.  That's why they run differently. I assure you there is absolutely nothing wrong with the engine."  I should have pointed out to him that it was a Japanese made car we were talking about!
     So Giuseppe and I left there.  I was wishing that the Audi wasn't so far in the other direction that I could take him with me to see it again.  But as it was, we had been gone about three hours and it was time to get home.  I continued my online search and emailed the garage where the Audi was to see if it was still available and thought that perhaps I would go see it again last Friday.  But then Giuseppe and Hélène invited me to go to Tarbes with them on Saturday to a used car expo and that sounded like a great idea.
     The car expo was a bust - very few cars there, unfortunately.  So we stopped at a couple of lots in Tarbes and on the way back.  We didn't see anything that worked for either of us, but as it was lunch time we decided to go get something to eat before heading back home.  I then spent all Saturday night and all last night online looking to see if any new cars had appeared.  There were a couple that I thought I would go see as they were fairly close to where the Audi was and decided that today would be the day to buy a car.  I really liked the Audi, but felt like I needed to be absolutely sure that it was the car for me.
     So this morning, I (and CoCo) took off on a car buying expedition with fingers crossed!  I had two cars I wanted to look at before deciding on the Audi.  Not sure I could have found the places without my rental car's GPS!  (I need to invest in one!)  The first car was not on their lot and I didn't really understand why.  The second car lot was almost imposible to find even with GPS.  I ended up out in a field where a few old cars were parked and decided it didn't look like a place I would want to buy a car.  So, off I went to the Audi to drive it again (faster!) and ask some questions and . . . . I now own a car in France!
      Up to this time I have referred to Hélène and Giuseppe as my landlords, but they have gone out of their way to be helpful and make me feel "at home" and I am so happy to be able to call them my friends. Helene went "above and beyond" to make sure I finally got my bank account opened, making numerous calls on my behalf (I still don't have a French phone).  We had a great visit on the road trip to look at cars.  I really do enjoy their company.  They also have had me in their home for dinner.  And Hélène is going with me tomorrow to finalize the paperwork on the car which has to be done at the prefecture in our "capital" which is Auch, about a 40 minute drive from here.  I have to register the car and get paperwork on file before I can drive the car.  So I won't have it for a few more days.
     But I am so thankful for H and G!  They have made the move so much easier and I am less stressed by all of this knowing that I am in their very capable hands. So now I have an old car (or will have soon) and new friends and I'm feeling more at home every moment.
     I had no idea that we can see the mountains from the next hill!  Saturday, when H, G and I went to the car show, we made a quick stop to get gas in Marambat which sits up on a hill only a couple of miles from the cottage.  And there were the mountains in the distance!!  Snow-topped Pyrénées easily seen on a bright sunny cloudless day!  And as we continued to drive south they just got bigger and bigger and my heart filled with joy.  What a beautiful sight!  Yesterday, I decided to make another drive that direction so I could get another view of the mountains - because I just can't get enough of them!
     I drove to the ancient tiny village of Montesquiou where I could see the Pyrénées.  Unfortunately, yesterday was cloudy so they weren't as clear on the horizon.  But I had a wonderful experience.  The old church of St Martin was completely empty.  I walked inside and was the only one there.  I love the old churches of France.  They are all so different in decoration and architecture, but I always get the same feeling of peace.  I wanted to know what the acoustics were like so I started humming, very softly at first and then a little louder.  Then I started singing "Oh, Worship the King" and the sound was amazing as it reverberated off the stone walls and returned to me as though becoming a part of me.

Inside the church

Walking out of the church - the old well

The Snow-Capped Pyrénées in the Distance

The lovely Autumn countryside

The only original gate left from the ancient walled city

     Then walking outside the church I saw the mountains off in the distance and it was the perfect day!  (Except for not being able to find a place to have lunch.  So many places, especially in little villages, are closed on Sunday)
     I love all the little winding roads and all the bends - a great metaphor for my life right now!  But every bend straightens out eventually and none of the roads is impassible.  All is well, and knowing that you are all along for the ride makes me very happy.  Merci!

La Vie Quotidienne or Everyday Life

   First let me say "Hallelujah!' my bankcard came!  It is a three step process by mail. First I got the official paperwork telling me my account number and the bank routing number, etc.  Two days later I got the bankcard, but am still waiting on the letter that will give me the PIN that goes with the bankcard.  So, yes, I do officially have a bank account, but no, I can't use the card quite yet.  Baby steps . . .
     Many of you are curious as to what I do every day so I thought I would give you an idea of what my life is like in France at this moment.
     The first thing that happens every morning (after I throw on some appropriate clothing) is that I take CoCo out for a walk to "do her business".  We walk around the house to the parking area so she can look for the cats along the way.  When we got here a month ago, it was still warm enough in the mornings that a sundress worked for our walk, but now it's much cooler and I have been throwing on sweats.  It does warm up once the sun comes out.
     When we get back I feed CoCo (they sell Pedigree here) and I do my morning stretches while she eats and my tea water heats up.  Then I fix my tea, grab a croissant, butter and jam, and turn on British TV to find out what's been happening in the world while I was sleeping.  It's very interesting (and refreshing) to get the news from a perspective that is not American!
     Once I'm fed and dressed and ready to face the day, here are some events that might happen:
***Going to the grocery store:   I really like the Carrefour grocery chain (the one that likes my American debit card).  You can buy any kind of liquor that your heart desires, and you can even do your laundry while shopping as there are coin operated machines just outside the entrance.   If you are buying a lot of items and need a cart you will have to pay 1 euro for it.  And you better bring your own bags and be prepared to bag your own groceries as the cashiers do not do that for you.  Eggs and milk products (except for cheeses) are not refrigerated.  They are on the shelves just like boxes and cans.  And, speaking of cans, you will not find any canned soups in France.  Soup comes in boxes (like chicken broth - except you can't find chicken broth in France) or it comes in packets to which you add water.
     I did some research before I left the States about the availability of Dr Pepper in France and everything I read said that it was only distributed in the UK but not on the continent.  But, guess what?  My Carrefour store has a section of foods from other countries and right there on the shelf for the UK products (along with some really strange items!) are cans of Dr Pepper!  Boy, was I happy to see that.  I could also find peanut butter there.  The French have never warmed up to peanut butter.
*** Lunch:  I either make a ham and cheese croissant sandwich or find a local restaurant to try out or even one in another village.  On the occasion that I should find myself in the larger town of Auch (about 30 minutes away) I will stop at the McDonalds for a cheeseburger, fries and a coke.  Here are some observations of the French McDonalds -  you place your order on a digital screen just inside the door. There are usually 8-10 of these. It is very easy to use and you can either pay with a card on the machine or mark the icon that you will pay the cashier.  Then it will ask you what section you plan to sit in.  The restaurant is clearly marked with numbers.  Your receipt (once you have paid either on the screen or at the cashier) will have the section number printed on it.  Then you go find a seat and a staff person will serve you your meal on a tray and wish you "Bon Appetit".  Ever so civilized!  The beef tastes fresher than in the US.  The fries are a little crispier and the drinks have very little ice.  (and no such thing as free refills)  Or I'll use the "McDrive" and get it to go.
***Going to a movie:  There is a small one-auditorium theater in my little village of Vic.  They show a different movie each night!  But the larger theater in Auch has 9 screens and shows 9 different movies.  But their times are really limited.  Some movies may only be shown once in the evening while others might be shown in the afternoon.  I decided to go see "Les 7 Mercinaires" a couple of weeks ago.  That's the "Magnificent 7".   The lobby of the theater also has a small bistro set up so you can get a meal before or after the movie if you want, including alcohol, of course.  But concessions are obviously not of any importance to the French!  There were six or seven people in front of me buying tickets and not one of them bought any snacks.  But then, I didn't want their sugar popcorn either! That's all they had and then a few choices of candy with bottled Cokes, Orangina or water.  No buttered popcorn!!!!  Yes, the movie was in French which was pretty entertaining - hearing Denzel and the other Old West Cowboys speaking French - well, I was amused.
***I have found a restaurant in the neighboring town of Condom (that's actually it's name) that I have been to three times now.  It's a crepe restaurant adjacent to the old cathedral.  The food is wonderful and the view can't be beat.  For about $15 I can get a ham and cheese crepe that fills my plate, a side salad, a chocolate dessert crepe and a Coke.  You don't tip in France which is nice.  You don't have to end your meal doing math!  And dogs are allowed in most restaurants so CoCo gets to come with me.

The restaurant and view to which I am addicted

*** In the afternoon, I may choose to visit a nearby historical sight, watch some French TV, read a French magazine, or read my kindle while drinking some ice tea which I make myself.  Ice tea is not a European thing.  They sell Lipton ice tea in cans and that's as close as you get.  Yuck!
***There's a wonderful French institution called the "tabac".  You can buy books, magazines, newspapers, candy and sodas, lottery tickets, stamps, stationary items, toys, postcards and cards.  I love browsing inside them.  That's where I buy my "Femme Actuelle" magazine (like a Redbook) and my French TV guide.
***It's oh so very French to grab a table at a bar/cafe, order something to drink and sit as long as you like reading your paper or magazine or visiting or just watching the world go by.  It's lovely!
***Driving and parking:  In towns the speed limit is usually 50 k/h (30 mph) but once outside a town it shoots up to 90 k/h (about 55 mph) and it doesn't matter what kind of road you're on.  It could be a well-marked two lane highway with passing lanes or it can be a mountain road barely wide enough for one car let alone two and with switchbacks every 200 feet!  You are expected to use common sense!  Or fear!  And you can park on either side of the street going either direction as long is it's a marked parking space.  And if it isn't marked it's fairly common to see cars up on the sidewalks!

Notice the road and then notice the speed limit upper left!

***Dinner is usually simple.  An omelet with fried potatoes and sliced tomatoes is wonderful.  Or a precooked quiche or croque monsieur sandwich from Carrefour with coleslaw or a salad.  And the best dessert is either ice cream or a pain au chocolat (like a croissant with chunks of dark chocolate baked into it.
***Evening TV:  British TV is funny.  There are a few UK shows that are fun.  I have recently found
"Strictly Come Dancing" which is like our Dancing with the Stars.  And there are equivalents of some of our HGTV and Food Network shows.  But the only American shows I've found are 20 - 30 years old!  Like Columbo and MASH, Dr Quinn Medicine Woman.  They even seem to prefer their old series to anything modern.  Many of the older British shows that appear on our PBS stations are being shown here.   And I'm still trying to figure out French TV whose shows will begin at odd times such as 5 or 10 minutes after the hour.  Or 25 or 40 minutes after.  I do like their nature series!
     So, that's how my days usually look.  This week I'll be busy finding a car.  I've been searching online and checking them out that way.  I definitely want an automatic.  Driving a stick is becoming tedious!  Especially on these little winding roads, and it will be even worse once I move closer to the mountains!  And automatics are not easy to come by in Europe!  So my choices - in my price range - are quite limited.  I'll let you know next week how it went.  Keep your fingers crossed for me!
     As always I want you to know how grateful I am that you take the time to read my blog.  I know your days are busy and there are a ton of things that take up your time.  So I feel very special that you are willing to take the time for me.  Thank you so much for joining me on this amazing journey!  Merci, mes amis!

French Tuscany, Everything's Cheaper in Spain, and Where's My Bankcard

     The region of France where I live is called the Gers.  I saw the similarity between here and Tuscany (where I spent two weeks this time last year) even before I realized that it is nicknamed "The Tuscany of France."  Rolling green forested hills, vineyards large and small, fields of sunflowers and wild flowers, tree-lined drives, vegetable and flower gardens beside the golden stoned farmhouses, narrow winding roads leading from one little village to the next sometimes barely wide enough for two cars to pass.  It's delightful!

     I never tire of driving around in this area and visiting yet unexplored villages and sights.  In fact, I don't tire of visiting already explored villages.  This morning I decided to revisit Condom where I had my birthday lunch.  I love the little crèpe restaurant that's adjacent to the cathedral.  You have to walk up the stone stairs to get to the eating area.  I was quite impressed to see an elderly lady make the effort today.  Many places in Europe are not handicap accessible, but they are so old that there's really no way to make them so.

My view at lunch today

     I had a repeat of last time - the ham and cheese galette (like a crèpe but made with buckwheat flour), a small side salad with balsamic vinaigrette, a Coke and a crèpe au chocolat!  Mmmmm . . .
And a wonderful view of the cathedral as I ate.  They were as busy today as on the 18th with three waiters bustling around to take orders and pick up plates and deliver meals.  French waiters will never hurry you from one course to the next.  They don't hover like many American waiters do.  In fact you may have to ask for what you want next as they believe in eating slowly and enjoying what you eat.  A meal is an event to be cherished.
     Speaking of meals, I had some wonderful ones on my foray into Spain on Friday.  And that brings me to the second part of the today's title - Everything's Cheaper in Spain.  When I told my landlady that I was planning a drive across the border, she asked if I might be willing to bring her back some shower gel and shampoo.  She said these items (and many more) are significantly cheaper in Spain than those same items would be in France.  I assured her I'd be happy to find a market and pick up what she wanted.  She printed off the labels and gave me some money.  I'll come back to that in a moment.
     So, Friday morning, CoCo and I hopped in the car and headed south.  I find myself doing the same thing on the road towards the Pyrenées that I used to do driving from Kansas back into Colorado.  I look for that first sign of a mountain.  It doesn't take long from here to see them in the distance - maybe about an hour and then, of course, they grow!  It's magical!  It's a national highway all the way so it was an easy drive through the mountains, and more than once I found myself thinking how much like Colorado this area is.

     Just across the border, the Spaniards had the brilliant idea of putting in a large market just for all the French that come there to buy everything that is cheaper - in some cases less than 1/3 the cost of the same product in France.  It was a really nice, modern shopping center complete with a perfume shop, a large liquor area, a regular grocery store - even a clothing store and a restaurant.  I easily found what Hélène wanted and then headed into the little town of Bossost for lunch.
     The town runs along the banks of the Garonne River which is a major river in France, but begins as a little mountain stream in the Spanish Pyrenes before gaining speed and size and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean at Bordeaux.  It's a lovely little mountain village and I was out of it before I realized it!  So once I found a round about to make a u-turn, I came back to a little terrace cafe I had seen on my way through.  We (CoCo and I) stopped here and ate on their patio.  They had a typical "prix fixe" menu meaning that for a set price you had a choice of appetizer, main dish and dessert as well as a drink.  So for 13 euros (That's about $14) I had paté with toasted bread and a salad with lettuce and chopped green and black olives with balsamic vinaigrette.  Then for a main dish I chose the grilled chicken which had a marvelous spicy crisp skin served with roasted potatoes and peppers.  For dessert I had to go with the flan!  Mmmmm.  And I had a glass of rosé.  One of the best meals I've ever had for under $15 all inclusive!  And a view of the mountains and the river as well.

The Garonne River looking south

The Garonne River looking north

My view at lunch

     I took a different route returning into France.  It is a road often used in the Tour de France because of its twists and turns and dramatic vistas.  I did not like it in my manual shift car!  I can't imagine doing those hairpin curves on a cycle going 50 mph and then having to slow way down to take the bends.  Oh my!

     Later that afternoon we arrived at Marianne and Brian's BnB near the tiny little village of Loudet (back in France).  Marianne and I became facebook friends a few years ago and I was really excited to meet her and see her lovely property - Pyrenées Gites de Fournil.  Brian is a cycling enthusiast and he wanted to have a place that was near all the famous climbs to appeal to other cyclists.  They have a wonderful panoramic view of the mountains.  And they have two absolutely lovable dogs.
     It took some time but CoCo finally was ok with them being near her.  Fortunately, both Maddie and Monty are very docile and friendly - at least with other dogs.  I hear they also are not fans of cats!  So they had that in common! ha!  I had planned on going back out later and picking up some dinner, but they said there was nothing close by and I was welcome to share some of their dinner with them.  It was a lovely evening so we sat outside and enjoyed three different cheeses, a loaf of perfect French bread, a mushroom spread, a mixture of olives, a bowl of fresh tomatoes, an impressive view, and wonderful company!

The view from their garden

The view from my room

    The room and bathroom were so beautifully decorated I felt like I was in a five star hotel!  Had it been warmer I could have enjoyed a dip in their pool.  And the next morning, breakfast was just as wonderful as dinner the night before.  And all too soon we were headed back home.  It was a great visit and I hope to do it again before too much longer.  Merci Marianne et Brian! (Et Maddie et Monty aussi!)
     I still do not have a bankcard!  Hélène has been keeping an eye on the post everyday for me.  We were sure I would have it by last Monday.  So Tuesday morning she spoke to the bank lady who was as baffled as we were.  She checked her computer and someone (at the national level of the bank) had put a question mark next to my nationality!  What????  How could they question that I'm an American?!  What more do I need to show them?  They have copies of my passport, my visa and even my birth certificate (which I'm very glad I decided to bring as they needed proof of my maiden name).  Is there something about me that looks un-American?  The bank lady assured Hélène that she would see to it that my card came by this next week.  We'll see . . .  I'm now starting to get a little nervous as I have to have a bank account in order to be able to transfer money and get a check to buy a car - which has to be done by the end of this month as that is when my car lease is up.  I was warned that this would not be easy!  So, fingers crossed - or "les droigts croisés" (sounds like "lay dwah cwahzay") as the French say.
     Oh those sneaky bends in the road!  I have experienced them both literally and figuratively this past week.  Thanks for coming along with me.  It makes everything better knowing that you are here.  Merci!